I finally decided to renovate my little plot at the new apartment. Since we’ve moved in I’ve just had all my plants in pots sitting on top of pavers which lined the floor of the garden “bed”. I’m not sure whose idea this was, whether the landlord or previous tenant but I’m guessing it may have been an attempt to keep the shoots from the nearby tree from taking over. They weren’t really effective in that manner since the shoots were popping up in between every paver. Anyway, I removed all the paver under which was some sort of filter cloth which i also removed and lo and behold there was some pretty nice dirt under there with earthworms galore. I bought about 20 bags of topsoil and compost to fill it out and planted my existing plants into the bed, leaving room for annuals and maybe a few more flowering perennials. It’s still a mess out there but here are a few photos documenting the process.
Here in Brooklyn I’ve been spoiled for the last three years with my south facing, relatively unencumbered, sunny garden. I’ve easily been able to grow vegetables and herbs and even an occasional fruit. But now, settled in the new place I realize there is a monster of a tree that will eventually blanket my yard with shade. Some typical shade-loving perennials are hosta, ferns, brunia, hellebore, heuchera and hydrangea just to name a few. They are all pretty hardy and should come back each year depending on variety although i’ve found some ferns can’t take the cold winters up here and never rear their fronds again. You should choose some shrubs and perennials for depth and texture and then add annuals for color and tone. Here are some great annuals for shade: Impatiens which will fare well all season long. Coleus which comes in so many amazingly colorful varieties nowadays. The Polka-dot plant is just plain cool and gets pretty tall. Ipomea aka sweet potato vine is perfect for container plantings. Lobelia is a cute and delicate flower that is great for borders. And of course the ever-classic pansy or it’s little sister, viola, can be used to fill a window box.
I admit I planned on documenting the transplant of some of my old plants to the new apartment but I was so distracted and busy by the move I shirked my duties. Mea culpa. Here are some pictures of the current garden. A few are new additions but mostly old pals I couldn’t bear to part with. It’s no where near complete but it is only April so there’s still time. On a side note, my computer display is broken so I don’t really know how this final draft is going to look. Here’s to hoping!
I know you’ll be tempted to clean out the garden once your bulbs pop up so you can see them in all their gorgeous green glory. But hold off a little longer just in case it snows or frosts again. They’ll need their winter coats. Here’s a couple pics from my current, soon-to-be-abandoned, garden (we’re moving). I’m going to transplant a few things, which i will chronicle, but most of my hard work will stay.
full sun/part shade
germination 5-7 days
40 days to harvest
Starting seeds on your sunny windowsill gives the hope that spring is just around the corner.
Make sure to check your seed packets for instructions but keep in mind you may need to make adjustments given your situation. In Brooklyn we have itty bitty windowsills, although some people are lucky to have a slice o’ backyard land or a plot in a community garden… if you can make an outdoor hoop tent to start some heartier veggies outside rock on! Get to it! We want to see what you’re up to!
Now back to our itty-bitty windowsill and the arugula…
When starting seeds it is best to work with a wet soil mixture that is almost a dry mud consistency – this makes filling your peat pots and seed handling go much smoother – and alleviates the settling that would occur with the first watering…I highly recommend this. Once the seeds are in and soaking up some warm sunny late winter rays of vitamin D you will start to see some sprouting action… this is where it gets ugly.
Survival of the fittest… this IS important:
Once your seeds are all germinating and sprouting and doing their thing along comes the thinning of the herd… I know, no one ever wants to and almost always tries to avoid the slaughter but you really want to keep the strongest seedlings to plant in your containers, pots, raised beds… (as mentioned yesterday, more on that soon enough.. all in due time!) Another thing to keep in mind…we are in Brooklyn, not Kansas & we are not planting rows of corn… real estate is a hot commodity so planting seedlings closer than the recommended 6” apart, well is just necessary and really won’t do too much harm to your harvest.
Reseed your Arugula patch every 2-3 weeks for a continuous harvest right up until a month before your frost date – here in Brooklyn we usually get a frost the week of Thanksgiving.
Arugula is ready to harvest in about 40 days. Harvest leaves from the outside in to the center of the plant. The flowers are edible and have a spicy radish like taste to them. Stay tuned to watch our lettuce patch take shape… we’ll keep you updated along the way!
I love garlic. I’d eat a garlic sandwich if it weren’t for the inevitable “death breath” that garlic has habit of creating. As you can tell by looking at it, it is a bulb and therefore can be planted in the fall along with all of your other bulbs. Only with garlic, a single clove sort of acts as a seed rendering an entire bulb after maturation. This makes sense when you think about the garlic you’ve left unused for weeks and it starts to sprout a little pale green shoot. Now if you didn’t plan ahead (ahem) that’s okay too. Early spring plantings are just as good and you can yield a comparable harvest. The key is to sort of trick your garlic into thinking it’s in a dormant state by sticking it your fridge. And since I’ve never done this before i’ll have to roll the dice on the length it needs to be in there in order to be fooled. I’m guessing a week. Once your garlic is sufficiently sleepy break it up into single cloves. A general rule about planting bulbs is to dig a hole double the size of the bulb. So with each clove i suggest planting about 2 inches deep and 4 inches apart with the fat part of the clove facing down. If you’re fortunate enough to have the space to do rows make sure they’re a foot apart. I’d say the trickiest part of growing garlic is the harvest itself. You know it’s ready to go when the leaves start to brown and die off. I suppose it’s better to err on the side of harvesting too soon where the cloves will be very small (and the skins tender and edible as well) rather than too late where the bulb will split apart. Now don’t forget garlic needs to be dried. Otherwise it will rot and then all your work for naught. Despite your desire to manhandle your produce after all that waiting, don’t mess with them too much and certainly don’t wash them off. Just hang them up in a cool, dry place and after about a week you can wipe off the dirt and reap your rewards.